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Cam Removal - Photo - Hopping Up An AMC V-8 - The Hunt For Power: Part 1
Between the pushrod V-8, wing windows, granny-geared manual transmission, solid axles holding 4. And while the AMC V-8 had plenty of grunt down low, we never really got to rev it to a point that it made any reasonable amount of horsepower.
Original equipment mechanical problems aside, Piggy had also spent the past 36 years and just over 90, miles receiving sporadic use and even more sporadic maintenance. Having said that, with the stock ignition system, camshaft, air-pump system, intake, and stock valvetrain, we hoped that it would be fairly simple to get the AMC to run much better than it currently did. The compression test yielded a very consistent psi in each of the eight holes.
A puff of white smoke during start-up and a little oil on a couple of the plugs seemed to indicate a few leaky valve seals but an otherwise healthy engine. With a call to Edelbrock for a bunch of parts and a few odds and ends from Davis Unified Ignition and Summit Racing, in theory we should be able to rev the engine higher and thus make more power.
To get baseline numbers, we drove the truck over to our friends at AIRAID where their Mustang Dynamometer allowed us to see what the tired valvetrain was doing for us or what it was not doing for us. Here is our victim: Note that we had not fully removed the factory air injection system. Our thinking was that the exhaust checkvalves and removing the belt from the air pump would allow the engine to run correctly despite the now-obsolete emissions parts. We suspect that one or both of the checkvalves were leaking and allowing extra oxygen into the exhaust, causing false readings via the O2 sensor and causing the rich condition.
cam install - The AMC Forum - Page 1
We set the engine to top-dead center based on the positioning of the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and the closing of the intake valve on the number-one cylinder. We then removed the rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and eventually, the heads. If you plan on re-using the camshaft, you have to number and keep track of each pushrod and each lifter.
They have to go back in the same location relative to the camshaft.
Remanufactured Long Block AMC 360 1972-1991
We then pulled the camshaft out, making sure not to damage the bearings. We also pulled the oil pan to reseal the part. Next we pulled off the throttle body, removed the radiator and hoses, and pulled the accessories and water pump. We then removed all the bolts holding the intake manifold to the engine. We used some seriously strong gasket maker the last time we installed the intake manifold to repair a vacuum leak.
If it blows, you can grab a replacement pretty much anywhere.
Hopping Up An AMC 360 V-8 - The Hunt For Power: Part 1
Or, why not upgrade a 2. Even the "mighty" 3. Besides, reliability was never one of the degree V-6's traits. Its only saving grace is that it shares the same bellhousing bolt pattern as Jeep's 2. We'd rather have one of those. Ford began installing its new overhead cam 4. Since these engines litter the boneyards nowadays they represent a great high-revving source for a fuel-injected engine.
There's very little aftermarket support for the 4. Furthermore, the overhead cam design of these engines translates into an exceptionally wide package that's sure to have interference issues in most engine bays. And despite the perception, the 4.
It's just that they make comparatively poor torque down low in stock trim, so you really have to wind 'em up. Perhaps if you scored a supercharged 5. There's no wow factor and no really good reason to run a Mod Motor. Medium-Duty Diesel The candidate: We're talking about the 5.
For some reason guys think one of these engines will make any Jeep better everywhere from the trail to the street. Most expect exceptional low-end grunt in the rocks and mileage numbers on the street in the high 20mpg range. These engines are without exception packaging nightmares in most Jeep chassis.
Besides the fact most weigh in excess of 1,lbs, the related turbo, intercooler, plumbing, and cooling components will put many swappers over the edge. The massive torque of most of these engines will require equally-massive axle and drivetrain upgrades, not to mention frame and suspension bolstering.
Plus, comfort will suffer thanks to the immense vibration and exhaust fumes. Or start with a larger candidate, like a J-truck. There's a wow-factor with a cleanly-done big diesel swap, but it's a deceptively-complex undertaking that will overwhelm most enthusiasts who try to tackle it themselves.
Ford Flathead V-8 The candidate: Back in the late '40s and early '50s the Ford flathead V-8 was the affordable alternative to the new and expensive overhead-valve V-8s like those offered by Oldsmobile and Cadillac.
The ''54 Ford flathead belted out hp depending on model and year, which was a real improvement over the Go Devil's 60hp. Old is new and the tattooed hot rod culture is en-vogue once again. It's retro-cool to slap a Ford flathead V-8 in a flattie using swap meet parts for a unique wheeler that'll turn heads when the hood is popped. In our travels we've come across a few genuine examples using old-school conversion bellhousing adapters, but don't hold your breath looking for one to surface.
It's not a swap a casual admirer of the hot rod culture should undertake, but it's worth looking into if you've got the time, deep pockets, and conviction to make it happen. During a brief search we found a company called Flatattack Racing Products flatattackracing.
This bellhousing could also be used to mate the flattie to an AX, which can be mated to a Spicer As long as the suspension is kept at stock height there should be plenty of driveshaft to make it happen. Jeep cube F-head The candidate: With the intake valves moved from the block to the head, the F-head could breathe much more freely than the L-head.
It's nearly a bolt-in swap that will up the power over the older L-head and help a stock ish Willys maintain speed on grades. It delivers 20 percent more horsepower and nearly 10 percent more torque. However, nowadays there are other ways to get drivability out of your L-head and better swap candidates that don't use antiquated parts like the F-head and don't require a special carb or a hole to be cut in the hood for carb clearance.
If you want power in your L-head-powered flattie, why not be different and slap a 2. Or, if you're really good with swapping in a different four-banger, why not run a 2. Have you ever looked under the hood of a 4.